1997 BMW Z3
1997 BMW Z3 questions and answers
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Q: The check engine light is on in my 1997 BMW Z3. They said it was a traction issue. What does this mean?
The place I took it to wasn't set up to work on BMW problems like this. Is this going to be an expensive fix? What happens if I don't do anything about it?
A: quit peeling out. naw j/k. but yeah its an expensive fix. my buddys BMW the same thing happened. the part costed $1200, thats not including labor.
Q: Does anyone know where I can get a chrome shift surround for my 1997 bmw Z3 1.9cyl?
They had aftermarket ones a few years ago but cant find one anywhere now
A: Partsamerica.com or JC Whitney or any auto parts store.
I drove a car with a chrome knob and it was annoying the sun was reflecting off of it and shining into my eyes.
Q: Where can I find a rear window for a BMW Z3, 1997?
A: If your dealer can't get one for you. We've had good luck with
http://www.z3solution.com/
although I don't know if they have rear windows. A review of bookmarked sites also includes:
http://www.bmaparts.com/
http://www.eurowebparts.com/
For more specific information and/or personal experiences - try the Z3 message board (this is one):
http://bimmer.roadfly.com/bmw/forums/z3/
Good luck! We've got a '98, 2.8 Fun
Q: 1997 BMW Z3 for just $5000!?!?!??!?!?!??!?!?!?
But it has 200k miles :(
Should I or shouldn't I?
A: Nah man....too many miles on it. Its been worn down.
Q: thinking of buying a bmw z3, 1997 - 2000, i love the shape, does anyone know of any problems with the model?
A: I bought my Z3 new in 2001. It has been a second car, about 50,000 miles to date, but it's become my daily driver about 9 months out of the year. Not made for Chicago winters!
In fact, I wouldn't drive it in a light dusting of snow, no control just slipping all over the place... altough I've never tried with snow tires.
Stick with the 6 cylinder, don't bother with the under-powered 4 cylinder engine. Less reliable as well.
It has been by far the most reliable car that I have ever had. (Owned many BMWs and Mercedes).
I put new tires and brake pads on 6 months ago and this was the first out of pocket expense I've had for it.
The only time it spent at the dealer was for routine oil changes and the required Inspection I Service. Never the slightest mechanical or electrical problem.
I've heard and read on many websites and magazines that the Z3 has been one of the most solid and reliable BMWs ever built.
I think they're the most aesthetically pleasing cars I've ever seen. I hate the new Z4s!!! and hope to keep my Z3 for another 10 years or more!
The only negative, as I mentioned before is that this isn't a year round car. If you have winters and snow, I wouldn't even think about driving it.
Also, with a if your looking for a 1997-2000, you'll probably need a new convertible top. I'll probably have to replace mine this summer. The cloth top tends to fray and have loose threads after about five years, and the plastic rear window becomes permanently cloudy and scratched. My only gripe with the car is the plastic rear window, why not glass!
Mechanically sound, fast, beautiful and FUN TO DRIVE!!!
6 Years old and I still get compliments and looks at the gas station!
Q: BMW Z3 question?
Where is the engine and transmission made in the 1997 BMW Z3? My friend owns a BMW Z3 and she would like to know where the engine and transmission was made. All she knows is that it is a four cylinder engine and the vehicle was manufactured in South Carolina.
Any input would be greatly appreciated.
A: The Z3 is a great car. The final assembly plant for the Z3 was the BMW factory in Spartanburg, SC. The 4 cylinder engine was most likely assembled in the BMW engine plant in Steyr, Austria. The transmission (manual) is a Getrag (from Germany). The auto transmissions for 1997 were GM (from France).
The 1st link below is to a Z3 forum with lots of good information and lots of discussion about Z3's.
The 2nd link is to the Z3 Roadster homecoming website. Every year 500 roadsters are invited back to the factory in South Carolina (Greenville/Spartanburg)for a great weekend. This link gives details on the event.
Q: bmw z3 and airfilter mod?
I have a BMW Z3 1997 1.9, I have seen a very popular modification which you can do to the air filter, basically its another inlet pipe to let more air in.
I noticed there sensors in the airbox which i would think measures the amount of air which enters.... if i made this modification would it damage my engine in any way?
A: The most popular mod of this kind is to install an aftermarket CAI (cold air intake). K&N type cone filters increase air volume dramatically over the original air box and as you probably know more airflow = more combustion = more HP. However, the consensus it that unless you shield the filter from the engine heat, your purpose is defeated so there are lots of aftermarket systems that incorportate an insulated shield or box with the cone filter. I drive a 318i with a mass airflow sensor that won't benefit from the modification but I've read that your '97 Z3 can.
Q: Carbon fiber hood for bmw z3?
Does anyone know where I can purchase a carbon fiber hood for bmw z3 1997. I search all over the place but i cannnot find anything. Or maybe a place where they sell z3 parts and accessories. THanks
A: I have seen them before not sure where .
check http://www.mashaw.com/
join bimmerforums.com , they have a z3 section with lots of information
Q: Bmw z3 wheels will they fit?
I own a bmw z3 1.9 1997 and just aquired some wheels from the z3 2.8
but i notice the rear wheels are 17" 8.5J
will the rears fit ok?
A: Try using http://www.tirerack.com and match up the numbers or you could call a BMW dealer too.
Good luck.
Q: Check engine light was on for 2 days and off afterwad. Do I still have to get it fix or it resolved itself?
1997 BMW Z3. 70,000 miles. Check engine like was on for 2 days, off afterward without any work done.
Scanned at Auto Zone and the code is P0420 Catalsyt Efficiency Below Treshold (Bank 1)
Could it be the oxygen sensor or something else? Is it still safe to drive?
A: It could be the oxygen sensor after the catalytic converter that is bad, or the catalytic converter may be going bad, hard to say. The fact that your light came on & then went off after a couple of days could mean a couple of things. It could be that your problem was only temporary and the problem went away after driving it awhile, in which case the computer will recognize this and turn the light off, but retain the code for future reference. The other possibility is the problem is still present but the light bulb is broken some how and not working.
To test to see if the problem is resolved or not, have the error code in the computer cleared and drive the car a few days, then go back and have the computer codes read again, if there is no code, then you're set to go, but if the code is back, then your light is not working & you need to address why the code is present.
If the code reappears I would recommend trying the rear oxygen sensor first as it is a whole lot cheaper than the catalytic converter. There are also ways to test the oxygen sensor to see if it is functioning properly, just do a search on the web. Also, depending on the year of your car (1995 or newer) and how many miles (less than 80,000) or 8 years I've read that the catalytic converter may be covered under manufacturer warranty. Might want to check that out, but you may be out of luck given the year of your car and the 8 year possible limit.
Best of luck.
Below are a couple of website links that I found that may be of help as well.
Q: how do you know when you need to do a tune up on an older higher milage vehicle?
i have a 1997 BMW Z3 with a V6 and the car still runs fine and doesnt hesitate more than it should off the line... but it does have over 100k on the odo. and it is getting just a tad bit more sluggish on acceleration but not too bad, when should I do a tune up? and do platinum, or multiple pronged "performance" spark plugs even do anything? I could probably do this myself, no?
A: did you never read the manual?
they have service intervals there for a reason. stick with them.
personally i tune all my vehicles once every 3 months. but the manufacturer has an interval for a reason, use it
Q: How do I find out the model number for a possibly 10 year old AVITAL car alarm. No stickers left on the remote
It came with a 1997 BMW Z3 that I recently bought. I am assuming the alarm was installed by the first owner (unknown) which makes the alarm about 10 years old as well. Can't find the control unit, the cutoff swicth, and the valet light is always lit. Keyless won't work either. Looking for a reset button somewhere.
I was told that it is stuck in valet mode and before I replace it I would like to try a reset. I ave already diconnected the battery from the positive cable and left it off for two hours hoping that would reset it... Nope.
A: usually cutoff or reset switches are located in the driver's side kick panel, but in order to avoid a BUNCH of costly repairs trying to repair a 10 year old system, replace it with a more up to date unit, and save the old one to show the grand kids in 30 years.
Q: Why the VIN of a BMW z3 M roadster begin with W?
I want to send a BMW z3 M roadster to Mexico and it has to be Made in USA. Every z3 M roadster that I´ve found the VIN begins with W (made in Germany) but in bmwusafactory.com there said " in Jan 1997 the M roadster starts production".
Am I going to find a z3 M roadster Made in USA? (VIN starting with 4), or I´ll have to resign with the 2.8 z3.
A: All Z3's and M Roadsters were manufactured in Spartanburg, South Carolina. Early 1998 M Roadsters had VIN's starting with "4", late 1998's thorough 2000 had VIN's starting with "W". 2001 and 2002 models had VIN's starting with "5". The reason for this "discrepancy" was apparently some confusion over the interpretation of the meaning of the first digit (assembly location or location of origin of most parts).
The most important digit in the VIN for describing location is the 11th digit. That location describes the assembly plant for the vehicle. "L" is the BMW code for "Greer, South Carolina, USA". (A,F,K = Munich, Germany), (B,C,D,G = Dingolfing, Germany), (E,J,P= Regensburg, Germany), (N= South Africa)
If you absolutely must have a "4" or "5" first digit, then you will have to find a very early 1998 or a 2001 or 2002 model.
The first link below will take you to a VIN decoding table.
The second link will take you to a group discussion on the first digit in the Z3 / M Roadster VIN
The third link will take you to a list of M Roadsters with their mfg date and VIN.
Q: what type of motor oil should i use for my car?
I own a 1997 BMW Z3 2.8 liter
A: Consult your manual, it should say whether you need 5w-30 or 10w-30. I usually go for 10w-30 cause its a better all season oil.
Q: 2000 BMW Z3 2.5 at 150,000 Miles? Worth to buy for $6000 ?
I've been shopping for a Z3 with a limited budget. I found one close to me, here's the advertisement. The carfax shows it was serviced at authorized dealer every 6 months (check free carfax report at the page).
Although it has 150,000 miles, it's one owner car, no accidents, very clean, and serviced regularly.
Would you buy it for $6000? or should I shoot for 1997 2.8 at 60k miles for $9500 ?
Here's the car:
http://www.openroadacuraofeastbrunswick.com/vehicle.asp?v=590669
Let's hear from the masters.
Thanks
A: I'd say no. It might be a good car but BMW's are expensive to buy and maintain. For $6k you could by a newer, faster car, with less miles.